Complete list
of publications
Conferences
Voorwinden, M., Klop, S., & McQuillan, H. (accepted, 2026). Designing a toolkit to explore the Design Space of Woven Textiles. DRS Conference 2026
Jansen, K., Hoogstraten, C., & McQuillan, H., (pending, 2026). Influence of Weave Structure on Pressure Sensing Performance. E-Textiles 2025, the 7th International Conference on the Challenges, Opportunities, Innovations and Applications in Electronic Textiles, Roubaix, France
Voorwinden, M., Andersen, K., & McQuillan, H. (2025). Multistable Leno Woven Textiles. Ubicomp-ISWC 2025. Espoo, Finland.
McQuillan, H., & Karana, E. (2025). Multimorphic Material Thinking for Sustainable HCI. Interactions, 32(4), 28-33.
Voorwinden, M. Buso, A., Karana, E. & McQuillan, H. (2025). A Design Space for Animated Textile-Forms through Shuttle Weaving: A Case of 3D Woven Trousers. In Proceedings of Designing Interactive Systems (DIS ’25). ACM, New York, NY, USA
Nicenboim, I., Karana, E., McQuillan, H., Devendorf, L., Kakehi, Y., Bell, F., Speed, C., Oogjes, D., Lining, L., Juul Søndergaard, M-L., Helms, K., and Withers, S. (2025). Regenerative Material Ecologies in HCI. In Proceedings of the Extended Abstracts of the CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (CHI EA ‘25). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, Article 763, 1–5. https://doi.org/10.1145/3706599.3716303
Buso, A., McQuillan, H., Jansen, K., & Karana, E. (2024). AnimaTo: Designing a Multimorphic Textile Artefact for Performativity. Proceedings of the 2024 ACM Designing Interactive Systems Conference.
Parisi, S., McQuillan, H., & Karana, E. (2024). Design for serene textile experiences: A toolkit. DRS Conference Proceedings 2024
Risseeuw, C., McQuillan, H., Martins, J., & Karana, E. (2024). (Re) activate,(Re) direct,(Re) arrange: Exploring the Design Space of Direct Interactions with Flavobacteria. Proceedings of the 2024 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems. (Honorable Mention Paper Award)
McQuillan, H., & Karana, E. (2023) Conformal, Seamless, Sustainable: Multimorphic Textile-forms as a Material-Driven Design Approach for HCI. Forthcoming In Proceedings of the 2023 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (CHI ‘23). Association for Computing Machinery, Hamburg, Germany.
Buso, A., McQuillan, H., Voorwinden, M., & Karana, E. (2023). Weaving Textile-form Interfaces: A Material-Driven Design Journey. In Proceedings of the 2023 ACM Designing Interactive Systems Conference(pp. 608-622).
Drews, J. A., McQuillan, H., & Mosse, A. (2023). Methods for Designing Woven Textile-forms: Examples from a pedagogical textile design workshop. InTextile Intersections 2023. Design Research Society.
Buso, A., McQuillan, H. L., Voorwinden, M., & Karana, E. (2023). Towards Performative Woven Textile-form Interfaces. In Textile Intersections 2023. Design Research Society.
McQuillan, H., Voorwinden, M., Arts, B., & Vroom, B. (2023). The Circular Techno-Aesthetics of Woven Textile-forms: A Material and Process-driven Design Exploration. 5th PLATE 2023 Conference, Espoo, Finland.
McQuillan, H., Walters, K. Peterson, K. and Hall, C. (2022). “Weaving futures” in Transformations ‘22: Artistic Research in Times of Change. Swedish Research Council.
Buso, A., McQuillan, H., Jansen, K. M. B., & Karana, E. (2022). The unfolding of textileness in animated textiles: An exploration of woven textile-forms . In D. Lockton, S. Lenzi, P. Hekkert, A. Oak, J. Sádaba, & P. Lloyd (Eds.), DRS Conference Proceedings 2022 (DRS Biennial Conference Series). Design Research Society. https://doi.org/10.21606/drs.2022.612
McQuillan, H., Walters, K. and Peterson, K. (2020). “Critical Textile Topologies x Planet City: Design practice and research intersect”. The Art of Research at Aalto University
McQuillan, H. (2019) ‘Waste, so what? A reflection on waste and the role of Designers in a Circular Economy’, in Who cares? 8th biannual Nordic Design Research Society (Nordes) conference.
McQuillan, H. (2019) ‘Hybrid zero waste design practices . Zero waste pattern cutting for composite garment weaving and its implications’. EAD Conference. Dundee
McQuillan, H. (2016), ‘MakeUse: Print as Encoded Way Finding a System for the Creation of Garment Form’. The Second International Conference for Creative Pattern Cutting, Huddersfield.
McQuillan, H. (2015). MakeUse V2: digital textile technology for user modifiable zero waste fashion. Shapeshifting. AUT: Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology.
Journal Articles
Buso, A., McQuillan, H., Jansen, K., Verma, H., & Karana, E. (2025) Exploring Everyday Experiences of a Multimorphic Textile-form Artefact. International Journal of Design.
McQuillan, H., & Karana, E. (2025). Multimorphic Material Thinking for Sustainable HCI. Interactions, 32(4), 28-33.
Voorwinden, M. & McQuillan, H. (2025). Woven Textile-form Design: A method to design Woven 3D Form. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice. Taylor and Francis.
de Jager, S. L., McQuillan, H. L., & Mulder, I. J. (2024). 3D woven denim as an exemplary design-manufacturing technique to shape sustainable fashion ecosystems. DISCERN: International Journal of Design for Social Change, Sustainable Innovation and Entrepreneurship, 5(2), 51-68.
Karana, E., McQuillan, H., Rognoli, V., & Giaccardi, E. (2023). Living artefacts for regenerative ecologies. Research Directions: Biotechnology Design, 1, e16.
McQuillan, H., Walters, K. and Peterson, K. (2021). “Critical Textile Topologies x Planet City: Design practice and research intersect”. Research in Arts and Education
McQuillan, H. (2020). “Weaving Futures: Adopting alternative postures to develop new methods for the construction of textile-forms in the context of micro-manufacturing”. Making Futures Journal 2020.
McQuillan, H. (2020) ‘Digital 3D design as a tool for augmenting zero-waste fashion design practice’, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. Taylor & Francis.
McQuillan, H. (2019) ‘Hybrid zero waste design practices: Zero waste pattern cutting for composite garment weaving and its implications’. Design Journal. Taylor & Francis.
McQuillan, H., Archer-Martin, J. et al. (2018). Make/Use: a system for open source, user-modifiable, zero waste fashion practice. Fashion Practice Journal. Taylor & Francis.
McQuillan, H., Rissanen, T., & Roberts, J. (2013). The Cutting Circle: How Making Challenges Design. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel. Emerald
Book Chapters
McQuillan, H. ‘Multimorphic Textiles: prototyping sustainability and circular systems.’ Chapter in Earley, R., & Hornbuckle, R. (eds). (2023). Design, Materials and Making for Social Change. Taylor and Francis
McQuillan, H. ‘Critical Textile Topologies’ in Sandvik, G. M., & Stubbs, P. (2022). The Circular Design for Fashion Book: A Journey Towards the Future of Design. Kogan Page.
McQuillan, H. and Rissanen, T. (2020) ‘Mind-Body-Garment-Cloth’, Chapter in Townsend, K. and Solomon, R. (eds). Crafting Anatomies. Bloomsbury
Whitty, J. and McQuillan, H. (2017) ‘Wardrobe Hack’. Chapter in Fletcher, K, and Klepp, I. Opening up the Wardrobe: A Method Book. Oslo: Novus Press.
McQuillan, H chapter in Gwilt, A., & Rissanen, T. (Eds) (2011). Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes. Earthscan Publications Ltd.
Books
Rissanen, T. & McQuillan, H. (1st ed. 2015, 2nd ed. 2023). Zero Waste Fashion Design. Bloomsbury Publishing, United Kingdom.
Patents
Karana, E., Parisi, S., Groenveld, R. & McQuillan, H. (in process, 2026). Unravelling knitted structure.
Janssen, S., McQuillan, H., & Soerjo, E. (provisional, 2024). 3D knitting patterns. NL38518/Sv-TD
Curation
McQuillan, H. et al. (2015) Make/Use at Objectspace Gallery, Auckland, New Zealand.
McQuillan, H. and Rissanen, T. (curators) (2011) YIELD: Making fashion without making waste. The Dowse Art Museum, Wellington, New Zealand. and Textile Art Centre, Brooklyn, New York. USA.
Exhibitions
McQuillan, H., Peterson, K., and Walters, K. (2020-2025). Costumes: Feldspar Dress, Lazulite Coat, Sediment Trouser, and Sulphuric Tunic, in Young, L. and Crabtree, A. (2020), in Planet City. Commissioned for Melbourne Triennial. National Gallery of Victoria, Australia; Since shown in Views of Planet City (2024-25) at SCI-Arc Gallery and Pacific Design Center, Los Angeles; in Our Time on Earth (2024) exhibition, The Barbican; X is Not a Small Country (2021) exhibition at MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology), Lisbon; The World Around Summit (2021), Guggenheim Museum, New York; Science Fiction: Voyage to the Edge of Imagination (2021) at Science Museum, London: Shanghai Biennale (2021). Acquired by MoMA for their permanent collection in 2024.
Andersen, K. Doubrovski, Z. & McQuillan, H. (2022). ‘Loom + Printer’ in DesignUnited, Dutch Design Week 2022.
McQuillan, H., Peterson, K. and Walters, K. (2021). ‘Experiment 0 (trousers) in DRAFTS 3 (2022) exhibition, Berlin Design Week, Designtransfer (2022) at Berlin University of the Arts; ‘Experiment 0 (trousers) in Up Close & Personal (2021) exhibition and online magazine, Dutch Design Week.
McQuillan, H., Peterson, K. and Walters, K. (2021). ‘Experiment 0 (tunic)’ and ‘Experiment 0 (trousers)’ in Väv – hantverk för alla [Weave – crafts for everyone] exhibition, Dunkers Kulturhus, Helsingborg, Sweden.
McQuillan, H., Peterson, K. and Walters, K. (2021). ‘Weaving Futures’ in Design in an Age of Crisis exhibition.
McQuillan, H., Peterson, K. and Walters, K. (2020) ‘Planet City: Sulphuric Tunic’. In Art of Research exhibition.
Cumming, D. & McQuillan, H., (2018). ‘Zero + one’. ODASA Building, Adelaide, Australia: Unmaking Waste Conference, Sept 20-23, 2018.
McQuillan, H. (2011). ‘TwinSet’ (pattern diagram) in Antonelli, P (2018) Items: is Fashion Modern, Museum of Modern Art, New York, USA
McQuillan, H. et al. (2015) Make/Use acquired (2016) for Te Papa, Museum of New Zealand permanent collection.
McQuillan, H. et al. ‘Make/Use’, in Fashion = Activism (2016) at BF+DA New York, USA.
McQuillan, H. ‘MakeUse: V1’ in Craft of Use (2014) event at London College of Fashion. UK.
McQuillan, H. ‘Void’, in Evergreen, (2012) Object Gallery, Sydney, Australia.
McQuillan, H. ‘War/Peace’ in Sustainable Fashion: Exploring the Paradox, (2011), Kent State University Museum, Ohio, USA.
McQuillan, H. ‘TwinSet’ in ZERØ Waste: Fashion Re-Patterned. (2010) Averill and Bernard Leviton: A+D Gallery, Chicago. USA.
McQuillan, H. ‘War/Peace’, in Fashion Art Biennale, (2010) Seoul, South Korea.
McQuillan, H. ‘Wolf/Sheep’ in Hot House Season 3, (2010) The New Dowse, Wellington, New Zealand.
Catalogues
McQuillan, H., Archer-Martin, J., and Bailey, J. (2015). Make/Use Exhibition Catalogue. Objectspace Gallery, Auckland, New Zealand.
Rissanen, T. and McQuillan, H. (2011). Yield Exhibition Catalogue. Textile Arts Center, New York City. USA.